YSL : Sia La Luce!

(In memoriam)

***Preface***
(Gensi 1.2 La terra era informe e vuota e le tenebre coprivano la faccia dell'abisso)

Paris Fall/Winter 2008...




There are no words - or far too many - and my (self) editing skill are still to dewy to do this any real justice.

However, I will say...

Besides the obvious reasons to adore this piece, (Simon Woods, LCD Soundsystem, the pin-point polka-dot blazer), this film further allowed YSL's Stefano Pilati to raise the proverbial bar and reaffirm everything there is to revere about menswear : namely, that the medium itself is so intimately and successfully capable of "capitalizing on the cultural and technological changes afoot" and this season's second installment only furthers the affirmation.

***Sequel***
(Genesi 1.26 "Facciamo l'uomo a nostra immagine e a nostra somiglianza")

This year, Pilati has followed up with an equivalently brilliant show - teaming up for the second time with the UK duo Sarah Chatfield and Chris Sweeney of Colonel Blimp. The result is another successfully rendered collection that elevates expectations once again :




Gender ambiguity, no stranger to the runway, is clearly at the heart of this. However, here it is articulated in so much dimension that Galliano would be - should be! - envious. Visually bookended by chalky androgony (for what else is dance really good for???), fleshed out by the sounds of Laurie Anderson (O Superman? anyone???) and accents of Plato's Symposium ("At the origin of human nature there was man and woman, of which the name survives but nothing else.") it is a captivating synthesis of man's modern and lonely confidence and his ancient flirtation with sexuality.

Crafted around one ingenious and simple idea,women's fabric applied to the rules of menswear, the collection itself seamlessly complements the film but is an equally compelling commentary on its own two feet.

I am pretty sure that every living breathing designer just had a "duh" moment - but not without a lingering curiosity. It is just that kind - only that kind - of genius that does the late Mr. Laurent justice.

Two seasons deep and Pilati continues to pose a true and compelling question to his audience... I await The Fall with bated breath.

Assagini

assaggiare (transitive)

1. To taste, to try, to sample.
2. To nibble.

Selected highlights - Milan 2009

Burberry Prorusum - Incredible this year; it was agony chosing one to represent the intirety of the Christopher Baily's opus - the lining on this one was the kicker though. Also - resounding YES for bringing back the "hat as unifyier" theme of spring '08. Brilliant, again. (Click all pic's for more...)


Dsquared - Not even the best of the show but it makes the point : Hands down the most relevant and true designers of American menswear right now - Mr. Klein could hold a candle this year. Beyond the clothing however, the Caten twins, along with the affore mentioned Mrs. Versace, spearheaded a more significant trend this year in Milano - the sudden popularity of black models on the runway. In these times of Pharrell, Andre300, and of course Barack this show in particular has its finger on the pulse.


Alessandro Dell'Acqua - does it again. As a whole the collection typically soft and slightly depressing but wonderfully so and - as always - out classing the suits and wingtips with cotton, denim, loafers and linen. The colors this year were decidedly earthy - whispering of the World Wide Green craze but with a slightly defeated undertone. Perhaps, the punches of bright primary (see fantastic sapphire jeans below) relay at least an ironic sense of optimism?

Regardless, I find Dell'Acqua to be conveniently truthful this season. (Also note: fantastic seamed brown leather loafers.)

Prima Vera

Spring '09 - Milano

Prima :
First post of the season, first post of the blog, Versace - first day in Milan.

Vera: The first time I became cognizant of Versace : Via dei Tornabuoni in Firenze, circa 1996 (my age? you figure it out). If I recall correctly Versace was razor sharp with a pre-emptive 80's revival spewing neon animal print, lace, feathers and a sea of trash all over the runway.

Since then Gianni (RIP) has tragically bowed out, Donnatella has dynastically and fantastically taken the reins, and this year Versace's 80's revival rolled in not as a sea, but in creamy waves of yummy pastels, crisp shoulders, behind-the-wheel leather, modern buttery textures. If Don Johnson, the Amalfi coast, and Duran Duran had babies this is what they would wear - delicious.