Burberry Prorusum - Incredible this year; it was agony chosing one to represent the intirety of the Christopher Baily's opus - the lining on this one was the kicker though. Also - resounding YES for bringing back the "hat as unifyier" theme of spring '08. Brilliant, again. (Click all pic's for more...)
Dsquared - Not even the best of the show but it makes the point : Hands down the most relevant and true designers of American menswear right now - Mr. Klein could hold a candle this year. Beyond the clothing however, the Caten twins, along with the affore mentioned Mrs. Versace, spearheaded a more significant trend this year in Milano - the sudden popularity of black models on the runway. In these times of Pharrell, Andre300, and of course Barack this show in particular has its finger on the pulse.
Alessandro Dell'Acqua - does it again. As a whole the collection typically soft and slightly depressing but wonderfully so and - as always - out classing the suits and wingtips with cotton, denim, loafers and linen. The colors this year were decidedly earthy - whispering of the World Wide Green craze but with a slightly defeated undertone. Perhaps, the punches of bright primary (see fantastic sapphire jeans below) relay at least an ironic sense of optimism?
Regardless, I find Dell'Acqua to be conveniently truthful this season. (Also note: fantastic seamed brown leather loafers.)
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